Akitas de MacLeod Breeder Information

So you think you want to be a Breeder...Or at least, you have not yet decided to spay or neuter your pet...

"Some say Akitas are being overbred; I say Akitas are now underbred by the RIGHT people!"

AFTER YEARS OF THIS PAGE BEING HERE to talk people out of breeding, it is still misunderstood so I am going to paraphrase by stating this: most dog owners should not have an unaltered dog because of the additional responsibility, not only of puppies but of the ways your dog is a different pet due to hormones! BREEDING your dogs should not be an accident or something that "they decide to do" it should be something you plan for for a LONG time!!! You should know everything I know about Akitas and breeding if you are even considering having an unaltered dog!!!! I repeat YOU SHOULD KNOW EVERYTHING I KNOW ABOUT AKITAS AND BREEDING IF YOU ARE EVEN CONSIDERING OWNING AN UNALTERED DOG!!!! *****TRIPLE THAT IF YOU HAVE CHILDREN!!!!! ***** AND, one last thought, please do not think that your pets can breed and have a litter and they will live happily ever after just because you can as a human. The difference is that as a human, you love your children when they grow up, when an Akitas children grow up, the parents will want to kill them!!

Let's see how well you have thought this through... Below is the harsh truth so you may get angry at me when you read it but it will prepare you for having a unaltered-canine.

First of all, you did

think about this right? If it didn't occur to you that your male, if not altered, will find a way to get to a female if he can smell her (and please don't underestimate the strength of dogs' sense of smell). If you have a female, who isn't altered, when she is ready, she will be mated whether you want her to or not if you haven't taken proper precautions. It is unhealthy for dogs to breed constantly and a female's body can't take carrying, having, and feeding babies every heat. This is called CRUELTY.

If you don't want to be a Breeder, then look on the internet or go to your local Animal Control officer, if you don't have a regular vet, and find out where to get a low-cost spay/neuter. Your dog or bitch can develop cancers in the genetalia, so if they aren't going to use them, they might as well not have them. Also, you may not want to breed but you will become a Breeder of "something" if you leave the situation uncared for.

Now, you say, I'm past all of that, I really do want to breed my animal. Great, but let's ask why? Hopefully your only answer is because you love your breed and want to produce quality animals that you are willing to take responsibility for for their entire life span. If your answer includes any of the following:

to make $ --- You will spend much more than you think, and probably much more than you could hope to recover in the cost of selling a pup, in the medical care alone. Even if your bitch never needs a c-section and has no abnormal pregnancies and never has to be inseminated, you will not recuperate your vet bills. This has not even factored in your facilities of whatever kind you choose, regular vet appointments, medicine, vaccinations, toys, whelping supplies, and food.

to show your children a whelp - kids do not need to see this. It is a miracle but also a very messy one that might scare children.

Please call your vet now to make a surgery appointment for your pet to be altered.

So now, you actually are breeding for the right reason or else you would have stopped reading by now... Are you prepared for what is about to happen next. I like to think of it as "breeding affecting your senses"! Every one of your senses will be affected by breeding. Get ready for the most physical, emotional, and intellectual draining you have ever experienced but the most rewarding gift of your life. Here's how:

Sight

You also need to look for the following in the female's reproductive cycle:

abnormalities

swollen vulvas

blood beginning

blood stopping

blood beginning again

blood stopping again

tummy growth

green discharge before the first pup comes out (sign of detached placenta - c-section will probably be needed)

Smell

oh yes, you can smell her in heat too, just like he can

you also get the pleasure of smelling what he continually marks

you get to smell your whelping station as your puppies dribble milk, defecate, and urinate

most of all, you will never forget the smell of a whelp, it is not pleasant

Touch

you will get messy with her fluids and the pups, not for the weak stomached

you will feel her tummy for walnuts (pups)

my favorite part, you will feel the kicks at the end of her pregnancy

you also get to cuddle your little fur ball and love it

Sound

Your male will wine, bark and cry for females in heat

scratching from both male and female to get to each other

her cry in pain if it is her first mate

him cry in pain if she tries to chew off his pennis while he is turning around

heartbeats to listen for abnormalities in her tummy and to try to count pups

puppy cries and wines if you have them

Taste

You have now just spent so much time on your dogs, you lost your job and spent so much money on them, you can't afford your own groceries but you were responsible enough to have plenty of puppy chow on hand so enjoy your Kibble!

Does this mean you are also prepared with the proper facilities? Your dogs need shelter, but not shelter so far away from you that they don't get attention. I personally believe a distant farm is not they way to go, although alot of Breeders do it. If you are breeding for the right reasons, you will want to put yourself and you pups, and your dogs' health above the bar set by other Breeders. You will strive to be the BEST! Not only will your dogs need a shelter, but they should be comfortable too. They need heat and air condition as canines have been domesticated. You would not want to be thrown outside at 15 or 105 degrees and be expected to like it. Also, you essentially need a place for every dog and every set of pups to be kept separate. You don't know, until your dogs reach full maturity, whether or not they will ever fight. That means if you have 2 dogs and 3 bitches, your need 8 places for dogs and pups that are separate from each other.

In progress: Your various jobs throughout the mating and pregnancy timeline

Click here for info on mating...may be graphic!

Here is one of my former pregnancy charts that I use for my ladies. Your job will be in red.

You notice swollen vulva Bleeding will begin soon. Hopefully you have a way to separate female from other dogs so she isn't mated if you don't want her to be or so she doesn't fight.

Day or so later bleeding begins Bleeding will last about a week. If you have multiple males together, you will begin to have problems as they all want her and will fight.

Bleeding stops She is ready for mating - this lasts about a week. At first she won't want it and will try to keep him away by turning quickly or sitting. Then she will decide she is ready and will fan her bottom in the air for him to come get her.

Bleeding begins again She bleeds for another week or so. She has no more use for him. He might look proud if he has gotten her pregnant.

If she isn't pregnant she goes back to normal. If she is - see the next chart below:

Mon 15 Aug 2005

First day of mating.

48 hours after the first mating the bitch should be mated again. Subsequent matings occurring over a period of time enhance the chances of fertilaziton taking place.

The spermatozoa migrate up through the cervix.

In between you need to keep dog and bitch separated (by something made of metal or it won't work) to allow his sperm count to grow potent again. Every other day is ideal.

Tue 16 Aug 2005

Sperm travel searching for a mature ripened eggs.

Tue 16 Aug 2005 -
Wed 17 Aug 2005

Spermatozoa reach the eggs in the oviducts.

Wed 17 Aug 2005 -
Thu 18 Aug 2005

Fertilization occurs in the oviducts which lead from the ovaries to the uterus.

Dam should only be eating puppy chow now to give her enough nutrition to cover pups too. She needs the extra protein as well as the calcium.

Thu 18 Aug 2005 -
Sat 20 Aug 2005

Fertilised eggs migrate down the oviducts and into the uterine horns.

The migration continue to enable even spacing of the embryos.

During this migration the eggs will grow into a blastocystes.

Fri 26 Aug 2005 -
Sun 28 Aug 2005

The blastocystes implant in the wall of the uterus.

Fri 26 Aug 2005 -
Fri 9 Sep 2005

The blastocystes will grow into an embryos.

During the next two weeks the important organs will develop.

Mon 29 Aug 2005 -
Mon 5 Sep 2005

Dams nipples begin to pink enlarge.

The fur on the dams belly and around the nipples may become thinner. -If not you will need to start trimming it for your future pups to find it easier without pulling her hair.

Sun 4 Sep 2005 -
Sun 11 Sep 2005

Morning sickness might occur due to hormonal changes or stretching and distension of the uterus. Dam may appear a bit apathetic. She may be off her feed for a while and vomit from time to time. Saltine crackers help as needed.

Feeding the dam several meals spaced throughout the day might help.

Your veterinarian may want to prescribe a drug to relax the uterus.

Fri 9 Sep 2005 -
Tue 13 Sep 2005

An experienced person (a breeder or a veterinarian) can tell by careful palpation whether the dam is pregnant.

It's now the best time to do this because the embryos are walnut-sized now and easy to count.

Mon 12 Sep 2005

Start to increase the dams food ration of high protein food.

Don't overfeed, excessive weight gain should be avoided.

The foetuses are now and are fully developed miniature dogs.

Sun 18 Sep 2005

The Dams abdomen starts to get larger.

Wed 28 Sep 2005

It's very easy now to feel the puppies, counting them might be a bit more difficult.

Sat 1 Oct 2005 -
Sun 9 Oct 2005

Dam begins to spend a lot more time in self-grooming.

Her breasts become even more swollen.

She may become a bit restlessness and begin to search for a suitable place to have her puppies. Take her to the whelping station you have built so that she gets used to sleeping there and is comfortable in it.

Mon 3 Oct 2005

The dam might lose her appetite during this period. Her abdomen can be crowded with puppies.

It is better to feed several smaller meals spaced throughout the day.

You can easily detect abdominal movement now.

Mon 3 Oct 2005 -
Tue 18 Oct 2005

Nipples and vulva should be gently cleaned with warm water, you might want to trim the hairs surrounding the nipples again, to allow easier access for the puppies to suck.

Thu 13 Oct 2005 -
Sun 16 Oct 2005

Milky fluid may be expressed from the nipples.

Fri 14 Oct 2005

You might want to start taking the dams rectal temperature each morning and evening.

Mon 17 Oct 2005

Twelve to 24 hours before she is due to deliver, the dams rectal temperature may drop from 101 to 98 degrees.

Clear discharge from the vulva might occur. I start feeding her Pedialyte (flavorless) instead of water to make sure that she stays correctly hydrated and keep her stomach in good condition as she will not want to eat for a while. I continue the Pedialyte through the first couple of days after the whelp until she wants regular water instead.

Tue 18 Oct 2005

Expected date of whelp. Of course this is just an average. Whelping may take place from the 59th to the 65th day. Puppies born before the 58th day will probably be too young to survive as their lungs will not be developed. If you run into problems, you can have an X-ray made of the dam's womb. If the pup's spines are not just as visible as their skulls, then they are consisting of more cartilage than bone and will not make it. Below is a scanned X-ray. You should be able to make out the skull in yellow and the spine in white. It is much more clear when you are looking at the X-ray under the vet's lamp.

You notice swollen vulva	Bleeding will begin soon. Hopefully you have a way to separate female from other dogs so she isn't mated if you don't want her to be or so she doesn't fight.
Day or so later bleeding begins	Bleeding will last about a week. If you have multiple males together, you will begin to have problems as they all want her and will fight.
Bleeding stops	She is ready for mating - this lasts about a week. At first she won't want it and will try to keep him away by turning quickly or sitting. Then she will decide she is ready and will fan her bottom in the air for him to come get her.
Bleeding begins again	She bleeds for another week or so. She has no more use for him. He might look proud if he has gotten her pregnant.
If she isn't pregnant she goes back to normal.	If she is - see the next chart below:

Mon 15 Aug 2005	First day of mating. 48 hours after the first mating the bitch should be mated again. Subsequent matings occurring over a period of time enhance the chances of fertilaziton taking place. The spermatozoa migrate up through the cervix. In between you need to keep dog and bitch separated (by something made of metal or it won't work) to allow his sperm count to grow potent again. Every other day is ideal.
Tue 16 Aug 2005	Sperm travel searching for a mature ripened eggs.
Tue 16 Aug 2005 - Wed 17 Aug 2005	Spermatozoa reach the eggs in the oviducts.
Wed 17 Aug 2005 - Thu 18 Aug 2005	Fertilization occurs in the oviducts which lead from the ovaries to the uterus. Dam should only be eating puppy chow now to give her enough nutrition to cover pups too. She needs the extra protein as well as the calcium.
Thu 18 Aug 2005 - Sat 20 Aug 2005	Fertilised eggs migrate down the oviducts and into the uterine horns. The migration continue to enable even spacing of the embryos. During this migration the eggs will grow into a blastocystes.
Fri 26 Aug 2005 - Sun 28 Aug 2005	The blastocystes implant in the wall of the uterus.
Fri 26 Aug 2005 - Fri 9 Sep 2005	The blastocystes will grow into an embryos. During the next two weeks the important organs will develop.
Mon 29 Aug 2005 - Mon 5 Sep 2005	Dams nipples begin to pink enlarge. The fur on the dams belly and around the nipples may become thinner. -If not you will need to start trimming it for your future pups to find it easier without pulling her hair.
Sun 4 Sep 2005 - Sun 11 Sep 2005	Morning sickness might occur due to hormonal changes or stretching and distension of the uterus. Dam may appear a bit apathetic. She may be off her feed for a while and vomit from time to time. Saltine crackers help as needed. Feeding the dam several meals spaced throughout the day might help. Your veterinarian may want to prescribe a drug to relax the uterus.
Fri 9 Sep 2005 - Tue 13 Sep 2005	An experienced person (a breeder or a veterinarian) can tell by careful palpation whether the dam is pregnant. It's now the best time to do this because the embryos are walnut-sized now and easy to count.
Mon 12 Sep 2005	Start to increase the dams food ration of high protein food. Don't overfeed, excessive weight gain should be avoided. The foetuses are now and are fully developed miniature dogs.
Sun 18 Sep 2005	The Dams abdomen starts to get larger.
Wed 28 Sep 2005	It's very easy now to feel the puppies, counting them might be a bit more difficult.
Sat 1 Oct 2005 - Sun 9 Oct 2005	Dam begins to spend a lot more time in self-grooming. Her breasts become even more swollen. She may become a bit restlessness and begin to search for a suitable place to have her puppies. Take her to the whelping station you have built so that she gets used to sleeping there and is comfortable in it.
Mon 3 Oct 2005	The dam might lose her appetite during this period. Her abdomen can be crowded with puppies. It is better to feed several smaller meals spaced throughout the day. You can easily detect abdominal movement now.
Mon 3 Oct 2005 - Tue 18 Oct 2005	Nipples and vulva should be gently cleaned with warm water, you might want to trim the hairs surrounding the nipples again, to allow easier access for the puppies to suck.
Thu 13 Oct 2005 - Sun 16 Oct 2005	Milky fluid may be expressed from the nipples.
Fri 14 Oct 2005	You might want to start taking the dams rectal temperature each morning and evening.
Mon 17 Oct 2005	Twelve to 24 hours before she is due to deliver, the dams rectal temperature may drop from 101 to 98 degrees. Clear discharge from the vulva might occur. I start feeding her Pedialyte (flavorless) instead of water to make sure that she stays correctly hydrated and keep her stomach in good condition as she will not want to eat for a while. I continue the Pedialyte through the first couple of days after the whelp until she wants regular water instead.
Tue 18 Oct 2005	Expected date of whelp. Of course this is just an average. Whelping may take place from the 59th to the 65th day. Puppies born before the 58th day will probably be too young to survive as their lungs will not be developed. If you run into problems, you can have an X-ray made of the dam's womb. If the pup's spines are not just as visible as their skulls, then they are consisting of more cartilage than bone and will not make it. Below is a scanned X-ray. You should be able to make out the skull in yellow and the spine in white. It is much more clear when you are looking at the X-ray under the vet's lamp.