American Kennel Club Standard:

Member of the Working Group

General Appearance
Large, powerful, alert, with much substance and heavy bone. The broad head, forming a blunt triangle, with deep muzzle, small eyes and erect ears carried forward in line with back of neck, is characteristic of the breed. The large, curled tail, balancing the broad head, is also characteristic of the breed.

Head
Massive but in balance with body; free of wrinkle when at ease. Skull flat between ears and broad; jaws broad and powerful with minimal dewlap. Head forms a blunt triangle when viewed from above. Fault--Narrow or snipey head. Muzzle--Broad and full. Distance from nose to stop is to distance from stop to occiput as 2 is to 3. Stop--Well defined, but not too abrupt. A shallow furrow extends well up forehead. Nose--Broad and black. Black noses on white Akitas preferred, but a lighter colored nose with or without shading of black or gray tone is acceptable.  Disqualification-- partial or total lack of pigmentation on the nose surface. Ears--The ears of the Akita are characteristic of the breed. They are strongly erect and small in relation to rest of head. If ear is folded forward for measuring length, tip will touch upper eye rim. Ears are triangular, slightly rounded at tip, wide at base, set wide on head but not too low, and carried slightly forward over eyes in line with back of neck. Disqualification--Drop or broken ears. Eyes--Dark brown, small, deep-set and triangular in shape. Eye rims black and tight. Lips and Tongue--Lips black and not pendulous; tongue pink. Teeth--Strong with scissors bite preferred, but level bite acceptable. Disqualification--Noticeably undershot or overshot.

Neck and Body
Neck--Thick and muscular; comparatively short, widening gradually toward shoulders. A pronounced crest blends in with base of skull.  Body--Longer than high, as to 10 is to 9 in males; 11 to 9 in bitches. Measurement from the point of the sternum to the point of buttocks.   Chest wide and deep; reaching down to the elbow, the depth of the body at the elbow equals half the height of the dog at the withers. Ribs well sprung, brisket well developed. Level back with firmly-muscled loin and moderate tuck-up. Skin pliant but not loose. Serious Faults--Light bone, rangy body.

Tail
Large and full, set high and carried over back or against flank in a three-quarter, full, or double curl, always dipping to or below level of back. On a three-quarter curl, tip drops well down flank. Root large and strong. Tail bone reaches hock when let down. Hair coarse, straight and full, with no appearance of a plume. Disqualification--Sickle or uncurled tail.

Forequarters and Hindquarters
Forequarters--Shoulders strong and powerful with moderate layback. Forelegs heavy-boned and straight as viewed from front. Angle of pastern 15 degrees forward from vertical. Faults--Elbows in or out, loose shoulders. Hindquarters--Width, muscular development and bone comparable to forequarters. Upper thighs well developed. Stifle moderately bent and hocks well let down, turning neither in nor out. Dewclaws--On front legs generally not removed; dewclaws on hind legs generally removed. Feet--Cat feet, well knuckled up with thick pads. Feet straight ahead.

Coat
Double-coated. Undercoat thick, soft, dense and shorter than outer coat. Outer coat straight, harsh and standing somewhat off body. Hair on head, legs and ears short. Length of hair at withers and rump approximately two inches, which is slightly longer than on rest of body, except tail, where coat is longest and most profuse. Fault--Any indication of ruff or feathering.

Color
Any color including white; brindle; or pinto. Colors are rich, brilliant and clear. Markings are well balanced, with or without mask or blaze.  White Akitas have no mask. Pinto has a white background with large, evenly placed patches covering head and more than one-third of body. Undercoat may be a different color from outer coat.

Gait
Brisk and powerful with strides of moderate length. Back remains strong, firm and level. Rear legs move in line with front legs.

Size
Males 26 to 28 inches at the withers; bitches 24 to 26 inches. Disqualification--dogs under 25 inches; bitches under 23 inches.

Temperament
Alert and responsive, dignified and courageous. Akitas may be intolerant of other dogs, particularly of the same sex.

Disqualifications
Partial or total lack of pigmentation on nose.
Drop or broken ears.
Noticeably undershot or overshot.
Sickle or uncurled tail.
Dogs under 25 inches; bitches under 23 inches.

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Info About Akitas - printed in Dog Fancy Magazine, November 1984

"Tender in heart and strength" is how the Japanese describe their Ichiban (number One), the AKITA. Of the seven purebred Japanese breeds, the Akita is the largest and the most revered by the people of Japan. It has been designated as a national monument by the Japanese Ministry of Education, and in their native land, they are regarded not only as fine pets and companions but also as symbols of good health.

The breed was developed in the 17th century when a nobleman, exiled to Akita Prefecture, the northernmost province of the island of Honshu, Japan, encouraged the land barons there to compete in the breeding of a dog for hunting. He wanted a large, aggressive dog that would be versatile enough to hunt deer and bear. Generations of selective breeding produced the Akita's ancestor (smaller than the modern day Akita), a dog of superior size and frame with versatile hunting abilities.

Once, ownership of an Akita was restricted to the Imperial family and the ruling aristocracy. Instructions for the dog's care and feeding were detailed in elaborate ceremony and special leashes denoted the Akita's rank and the standing of its owner. Each dog had a caretaker who wore an ornate costume in accordance with the Akita's standing.

Several times over the next 300 years, this "good luck charm" of the wealthy was nearly driven to extinction. Periodic favor kept the Akita alive through the Meiji and Taisho eras. But, during the 17th and 18th centuries, dog fighting posed a serious threat to the breed's continuation. Crosses with the Tosa Fighting Dog (a large, mastiff type of dog) from Shikoku Island produced the "Shin-Akita" (New Akita Dog), an animal of imposing size, trigger-like aggression and immense power. With all the interbreeding to produce Shin-Akitas, the original strain was nearly lost.

In 1899, there was a devastating outbreak of rabies in Japan. During the next 30 years, nearly 3,000 cases were reported. Dogs, including many Akitas, were ruthlessly and indiscriminately killed, for fear they might be carriers of this fatal disease.

By the 1900's, Akitas were nearly extinct. In 1927, the Akita Inu Hozankai Society of Japan was established to preserve the purity of the breed. In 1931, the government of Japan designated the Akita breed as a national monument as one of Japan's national treasures. The breed was so highly prized because of its rarity that the government would subsidize food for Akitas when their owners couldn't afford to feed them.

The ancient Japanese word matagi, meaning esteemed hunter, was bestowed on the best hunters in a village. The Akita was known as matagiinu (esteemed hunting dog) by the hunters of the northern Prefecture of Akita, who used pairs of dogs (a male and a female) to hunt deer, bear and wild boar. The animals would hold their prey at bay until the hunters arrived.

Akitas are highly prized because they hunt silently. They also have a "soft mouth" which allows them to retrieve game unharmed. Akitas are even said to have been used to drive fish into waiting nets.

The renowned Helen Keller is accredited with bringing the first Akita to the U.S. Outside of a Tokyo train station there is a statue of Hachiko, faithful pet of Dr. Elisaburo Ueno. The dog waited faithfully each day for his master to debark the train after work. One day the master did not come home, but still Hachiko waited, keeping up his daily vigil for nine years. He was fed by station attendants until his death, and each year a solemn ceremony is held in his honor. Keller was so taken with the story of the dog's fidelity that the Ministry of Education presented her with an Akita puppy named Kamikaze. Later, when the puppy died, the Ministry sent a second Akita to Miss Keller.

The breed's popularity in the U.S. really started when returning servicemen brought the dogs home with them. They were attracted to the dogs' strength and adaptability. The Akita Club was founded in 1956, and the breed was admitted to registration in the American Kennel Club Stud Book in October, 1972, and to regular show classification in 1973.

It is not uncommon for the uninitiated to ask if the Akita is a cross between a dog and a bear. Indeed, its massive head and chest do "bear" a certain resemblance to the larger mammals. One distinctive feature of the Akita is its fine ears: erect, triangular, small ears, set slanting forward and on either side of the head. Another Akita feature you can't miss is its tail, set high and carried in a curve over its back. Its eyes are deep-set and triangular.

The Akita is a liberal combination of kindness, courage and alertness. It is extraordinarily affectionate and tolerant. It is also very protective and will defend itself and its charges against others, particularly other dogs. It is intelligent and retains its lessons very well. It can't be bullied into submissiveness and will resent forceful training methods and nagging.

Akitas will not tolerate physical abuse. They are strong willed dogs with proud egos. They need firm handling, patience and praise. Large breeds like the Akita have a potential for violence and should not be sold to weak-willed or impatient owners. These dogs won't stand for mistreatment and will resent disciplinary training tactics sometimes used on other large breeds. An Akita may live 10 to 12 years and needs love and gentle guidance to prosper. Because of their strength, Akitas in the wrong environment, or without proper training, can be dangerous.

Akita puppies resemble teddy bears as much as older dogs resemble the full-sized, real ones. The Akita litter is usually about 8 to 10 pups. Pet quality pups cost about $500 to $700, while show quality ones will cost $1,500 or more.

At 3 months, an Akita pup might weigh more than 30 pounds, and at 10 months, it is filled out to nearly adult stature. Akitas will adjust to any climate and don't require as much exercise as other large breeds; however, a large, fenced yard should be considered a necessity.

Akitas mature at 3 to 4 years of age and should be given calcium supplements while growing, if a need is indicated.

Akitas are basically sound with few health problems. Conscientious breeders have their stock x-rayed for hip dysplasia. Bloat is a life threatening condition to watch for that requires immediate veterinary attention. It can be prevented by making sure meals are digested before vigorous exercise and that water is not drunk in excess. Otherwise, regular grooming, veterinary checkups and a good diet will keep the Akita in good condition.

An Akita is an intrepid guardian of its family and property. In Japan, it is often left to baby-sit children while mothers go off to work. It will not bark unless thoroughly alarmed, so it can be kept in close proximity to neighbors. It is an ideal car passenger that won't fuss, drool, or get sick, and it keeps itself fastidiously clean. Akitas shed twice a year, unless kept in a cold climate in which case they shed only once.

They are known for their mild disposition and their ability to "keep their cool" in stressful situations. One bad habit they seem to have is "goosing" people, and being gored from either front or behind by one of these dogs can be embarrassing. The Akita is also inclined to be jealous, so showing affection to other family pets will have to be handled diplomatically.

Akitas are gentle, extremely loyal dogs. They won the heart of their native land with their kind disposition and loving nature, and for a few special owners, they are the only breed to own. In Japan, they are considered good luck and are often given to ill persons or families with newborns to bring good fortune and happiness into their homes. But no matter what country and customs it must adhere to, the Akita is a versatile and revered companion, capable of loving and protecting its family for many years.   

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American Akita Versus Original Akita Inu of Japan

Although Akitas are recognized by AKC and CKC (Canadian) as one purebred breed, they are actually made up of two different breeds, the American Akita (which I currently breed) and the Japanese Akita.  The rest of the world, for the most part, recognizes the two as separate breeds.  The American Akita is a product of the Japanese Akita crossed with other dogs, during WWII when the breeders in Japan were trying to save their dogs.  The military was using dog hides for warmth of the soldiers throughout the war except for German Shepherds which were used as military police dogs.  Breeding the Shepherds into the Akitas would hopefully help save the breed.  The American Akita is large and bulky and the Japanese Akita has a much smaller frame.  Americans usually have a long variation of colorings but always have a black and white or black mask (except pure white dogs have white masks); where as Japanese dogs can be white or red, both with white masks or be brindle with no mask.  I have pictured a Japanese Akita here so that you may look at my Americans and see the differences for yourself...  (Japanese Akitas are much more rare in the US as many other countries do not allow reciprocity with breeders here because AKC does not recognize the American Akita and Akita Inu as separate breeds with separate standards!)

      

 

My  American male, Dan, at 10 months                                   2 year old Japanese male                

(85lbs and growing for another 3 years)                                 (full grown at about 85 pounds)

 

History from Japananese Akitas:

(Japanese Akitas were bred to other dog breeds during WWII to keep the breed alive as the Akitas were killed and their hides used for the military during the cold winters.  The US Sailors like the big bulky dogs that were the result of this mix and brought them back to the US where the AMERICAN AKITA, what is popular today, started to spread in popularity!)
During the Ice Age, the archipelago that now comprises the Japanese Islands was a crescent-shaped strip of land surrounding an inland sea.  At the northern end was the Siberian peninsula, and at the southern, what is now Korea. Stone age nomads followed game across the land bridges, migrating from different areas of Siberia into Alaska and into Japan. The earliest stone tools found so far indicate that people were in Japan as early as 15,000 years ago. 
The descendants of these immigrants lived into modern times with the descendants of the spitz-type dogs who accompanied them and helped in the hunt. Excavations of Joman Period (about 10,000 years ago) sites have yielded the remains of these dogs, which are similar in type to those found with many of the primitive people of the Arctic as well as Korea, China and Japan Indonesia, and Australia.
Recent archeological findings indicate that migrations from Korea and China began an agricultural society which gradually pushed the nomadic tribes northward. The melting ice sheets of North America caused drastic changes through-out the world.  In Japan, the rise in sea level created a chain of islands stretching about what is now the Sea of Japan.  The islands vary in size and topography as well as climate, which ranges from tropical to almost Arctic.
Once the land mass separated into islands, the necessity for some type of raft or boat for travel between the mainland and the islands or between the islands themselves greatly restricted the exchange between them.  Differentiation between the native spitz-type dogs would have begun with the resulting isolation, and over time, each area's dogs would have become more suited for an area's narrower hunting needs.  These dogs would also become less generic in appearance as the number of breeding choices decreased.  However, the basic spitz type remained and persisted as this 16th-century manuscript illustration demonstrates.
Trade routes from the north reached the Ainu people of Hokkaido and Karafuto from Siberia and Mongolia.  In the south, the Japanese alternately fought and traded with Korea.  Their premier partner was the already-established empire of China. Their vigorous trade relationship stretches back over 2500 years ago. 
China fascinated the Japanese, who at first enthusiastically embraced Chinese ways. They adopted Chinese writing and melded their native Shinto religion with the Chinese form of Buddhism. They also imported the techniques for planting and harvesting rice.
Between the court aristocrats, dogs were a favorite and favored gift. The Chinese sent many dogs to Japan. They varied from the little "Chin" lap dog so popular with the Japanese ladies and their Chinese counterparts to coursing hounds that worked with hunting hawks. Among pictures of dogs used by the Chinese for coursing are ones that look like a stockier, hairier Saluki than we have today. These dogs were undoubtedly introduced to China from the Middle East and Europe by caravan trade along the Silk Road. 
Although they assimilated many Chinese ways into their culture, in a cycle repeated many times, the Japanese gradually became more insular and underwent a period of isolation.  By the turn of the sixteenth century, the lucrative silk trade was carried out by an intermediary with ocean-going ships. The Portuguese, through Jesuit missionaries, had its sole custody, and through them, some European dogs found their way to the Japanese Court.
The end of the Portuguese stranglehold on commerce with Japan began when the crew of a Dutch East Indies shipwreck washed up on Japanese shores  in 1615. With them was an English pilot, named William Adams, who caught the attention of the first Tokugawa Shogun, Ieyasu.  Ieyasu made Adams a samurai, the only Westerner ever so honored, and called him Anjin (Pilot). Adams and his adventures were the model for James Clavel’s book and miniseries Shogun.
Under Ieyasu Tokugawa, Japan shed its isolation for a while and opened its ports to foreign ships from other European countries.  With these Westerners came even more foreign dogs (kari inu). Most of these were of a sight-hound type. Ieyasu is reported to have kept 60-70 of them to course deer. (Kuga, "JD," 56) The popularity of foreign dogs coupled with little interest in breeding might have spelled an end to the native dogs had Ieyasu’s descendants had the same interest in foreigners. 
However, by 1635, the Japanese retreated again to a period of national isolationism.  In 1640, Ieyasu’s son and heir closed all of Japan except the port at Yokohoma to foreigners except for trade with Mongolia, Korea, and China.  Japan’s isolation remained unbroken for two hundred years, ending when U.S. Admiral Perry sailed into Tokyo Bay and declared it at an end. His warship sitting in their harbor backed up his demands.
Once again, Japan began a cycle of interest in all-things foreign, focusing on the Western world this time.  European mining engineers began working in the mines of northern Honshu's mountains. 
Part of this area is now known as Akita Prefecture, but during the 1800s, it was called Dewa, and the main city, Odate.  Located far from the cities of the western plains, it was a mountainous, rugged, cold area.   The large game of this area consisted of boar, elk, and the small Yezo bear, like this one.  The dogs used for hunting in the north had long been known for their larger size. 
According to breed lore, a long-ago nobleman developed one strain of dog especially suited for this type of hunt.  An excellent candidate for this legend was the scion of the Sanehide family who took refuge in the Akita area when the family fell out of favor with Ieyasu Tokugawa. Dewa was the perfect backwater for a Daimyo with little to do (Sanson, 415). His breeding efforts could well have been the beginning of the large Japanese hunting dog.
In contrast to the rural areas, Japan’s densely populated cities commonly had dogs of mixed native and foreign stock. Except for the Japanese Chin, no one seems to have made any effort to develop or preserve breeds. 
Dog fights had been a favored sport of the samurai caste for centuries.  While these dogs in earlier times would have had other jobs like hunting , with the changes brought about by Westernization, some dogs were dedicated to this sport. A favorite was the Tosa Fighting Dog, a crossbred from the native Tosa (Shikoku) Dog and various imported mastiff types. 
To increase size and fighting prowess, the same kind of crosses went on in the north with the native dog of the Dewa/Akita area. Breeds likely to have been used were Great Danes (Deutsche Dogges) brought from home by German mining engineers. and Tibetan Mastiffs brought with Mongolian traders.

A push towards preservation of the native Japanese dogs grew out of the increasing sense of Japanese nationalism that ushered in the twentieth century. As Japanese interest began to focus on their own history and culture, they began paying attention to the dogs that had been in Japan throughout time.
Fortunately, the isolation of the rural north from the agricultural, heavily urbanized areas of the plains ensured that rural hunting had remained an important source of food.  When attention turned to the native dogs, the matagi inu (hunting dogs) could still be located to serve as foundation stock.
Of prime importance in this movement was Professor Shozaburo Watase who published an article about Japanese dogs in the Japanese magazine Inu (Dog) in 1915. He also began lecturing on them and chaired a historical preservation committee for the Ministry of Home Affairs. He and others wanted to preserve the native Japanese dogs and further knowledge about and interest in them.
Professor Watase’s efforts came to fruition when, in July of 1931, the government of Japan declared the large dog of Japan a Natural Monument.  It was named for the Akita Prefecture where it originated. Over the next six years, other breeds followed.
In the medium-size category are: Kai (Kai-Ken), the Kishu, the Shikoku, and the Hokkaido.  The Shiba is the small dog. The committee gained support from people all over Japan.
Although a club for Akita fanciers, the Akita Inu Hozonkai (AKIHO), had already been formed in 1927, the push for government support came primarily from Nipponken Hozonkai or NIPPO.  This club was formed in June of 1928 by Mr. Hirokichi Saito from Tokyo and several other interested men.  NIPPO began registering Japanese dogs, publishing a newsletter, and holding shows.
Interest in Akitas received quite a boost from publicity about the breed.  First came the tale of Hachi-Ko, which made the front page of the Tokyo papers in 1932. Then came Helen Keller’s well-publicized visit to Japan.  These stories, especially Hachi-Ko’s, focused national attention on the value of the native dogs. Fortunately, this attention coincided with the rising spirit of nationalism; otherwise, the native dogs of Japan might have disappeared altogether.
Very few could be found in urban areas. (Kuga, "JD," 5758) To help determine whether a dog truly represented the native type, NIPPO developed a written standard, first published in September, 1934. To generate it, committee members used writings about the dogs from previously published articles, outside opinions, judging at their early shows, studies of historical documents, observations of regional dogs, standards from Northern dogs in general as well as their own opinions. Among the outside sources is Siebold’s Fauna Japonica, a treatise on archeological remains. (Kuga, "JD," 72)
Efforts began with the remnants of the large dog found in Akita Province, but the committee clearly had problems determining what the dog should be. For two centuries, the original hunting dog had been corrupted by cross-breeding to improve its prowess in the dog-fighting ring making the committee’s task of determining just what the "real” Akita dog should be much more difficult.
All sorts of dogs had been crossed into the native dogs, including many European giant breeds, and Great Danes.  Their influence undoubtedly was responsible for the renowned size of dogs from Odate, the main city of Akita Province. If the Akita area dogs were thought of as “large” the Odate dogs were referred to as "huge," and Odate was not the only area with "huge" dog. (Okada, 49-50).
Fortunately, the matagi dogs of the rural mountains provided a reservoir of stock used to begin restoration. (Hiraizumi)
Obviously, all these breeding efforts came to a halt with the advent of WWII.  Whatever direction the Japanese dogs might have taken without its intervention is conjecture. Keeping large dogs alive in a country on a war-time footing proved almost impossible.  Not only was food restricted, but dog fur was used to line military clothing.
Because they were a drain on a fragile economy, police in Akita Prefecture received orders that all dog in the towns and villages except the German Shepherds used by the military and police were to be taken and clubbed to death. Dogs that survived were either working with the police or hidden by their owners, an easier task in the more rural areas.
The toll on all the dogs was enormous. By the end of the war, the Akita was close to extinction. (Linderman, 17-18).  Dedicated efforts managed to keep the breed viable, and by 1948, a third Akita organization, Akitainu Kyokai, (AKIKYO) had been formed. Each club, NIPPO, AKIHO, and AKIKYO maintains its own registry, has its own breed standard, and holds its own shows. Many dog were registered and shown in more than one of these organizations.
The breed caught the eye and heart of many American  servicemen after the war, and a cottage industry quickly arose to supply the demand for Akita pets.  Many of the dogs admired and nurtured by the occupation forces were from these puppy mills and were probably not of the best quality.  Many of the dogs that were more worthy were declared Natural Monuments by the government which prevented their export to the US regardless of ownership.
Others, however, accompanied their owners to these shores. Some of the dogs were kept as pets, some were given away or sold to others, and some were bred.
Spurred by their common interest in the breed. various breed clubs formed.  AKC accepted the new breed into Miscellaneous in 1956, but wrangling between groups of owners delayed full registration. In 1955 Mr. M.K. Spelmeyer founded the Akita Dog Association of America. Reacting to its closed membership, in 1956 eleven people who owned about 30 Akitas between them founded the Akita Kennel Club.  They changed the name to the Akita Club of America and incorporated in California in 1960.
The Akita Breeders Association formed later, adding another club to the rolls. When they were enjoined from using that name by the first club, who laid claim to it, the newly formed group asked the first club to take them in, to which Mr. Spelmeyer agreed.  To add to the confusion, Charles Rubenstein formed yet another club in 1963, the American Akita Breeders, supported by some of the time's well-known kennels.
Recognition required a single breed club but the two main clubs refused to merge despite an arbitration in 1969.  Finally, the following term’s new slate of officers made the difference, and the Akita Club of America became the single national breed club.
The last remaining step towards AKC recognition was upgrading the stud book.  With over 3,000 registrations, this was no mean task. On April 4, 1973, the Akita was admitted to regular breed status with the AKC. In the interim, the national club managed to come up with a standard and maintained the registration of Akitas already in their stud book and their offspring (Linderman, 34-39). After registrations stabilized, imports from Japan were no longer accepted for registration because the AKC did not have reciprocal privileges with any Japanese dog club. The ACA became a member club of the AKC in 1995.

During the years the breed’s popularity burgeoned in North America, scholars and concerned breeders in Japan continued their quest to learn more about their native breeds. AKIHO rose to ascendancy in Akita affairs and is still by far the largest and most influential registering body.
So few Akitas were left after the war, that the Japanese had to work with with they had, which wasn't necessarily what they considered ideal.  To preserve the breed during the hard times of the war and immediately afterwards, some crossbreedings, especially to German Shepherds, had been done. Other native dogs were also used.  After the war, the Japanese breeders wanted to eradicate any sign of what they regarded as its effects.
Eventually, two lines gained became the most prominent in post-war Japan.  Born about the same time in the Akita/Odate area were Kongo-Go and Goromaru-Go.
Kongo-Go was quite a winner in the show ring and very well advertised.  He was what is  called kurogoma or black sesame in color, what we have come to describe here as a shaded black or black with a brown undercoat.  Dogs of this color frequently produced traits that Japanese breeders felt had been introduced to the Akita through crossbreeding for fighting dogs or the Shin Akita
Because so many Tosa Fighting Dogs and other European mastiff-type dogs had been crossed with matagi inu during the heyday of the dog-fighting craze from the middle of the 1800s to the early 1900s, a very large dog of recognizable type had been produced.  Breeders called it the Kairyoinu or Shin Inu (improved dog), and many had drop ears, loose skin, and wrinkles.

That these problems plagued the Kongo lines, and because they were unable to eliminate their prevalence in the black sesame dogs, Japanese breeders eventually abandoned them in favor of the Ichinoseki lines which were founded on Goromaru Go.  He was a red pinto with a blaze and black mask.  His descendants fit more of what they wanted--tight tails; unwrinkled, tighter skin; and smaller ears--so Japanese breeders moved forward in the decades after the war with dogs that steadily diverged from those they promoted and sold for export immediately after the war.
The foundation dogs in America were from the Kongo lines.  Over the years before the stud book was closed, Ichinoseki dogs also found their way to our shores.  Many American breeders combined the two.  Akitas here are much more varied in color, size, and overall appearance than those shown in Japan.  As a result, American-bred dogs from imports that came before the stud book was closed can closely resemble Japanese imports coming into America today.  However, between the most extreme of the two, Japanese import and American bred, a considerable difference in appearance can exist.
For us, with one kennel club, one parent club and one standard, the world of the Akita in Japan can be rather confusing.  Three organizations still exist to register Akitas.  AKIHO is still the largest and most influential body dealing with Akitas.   AKIKYO was reorganized in 1988 and is still active, but NIPPO focuses mainly on the medium and small dogs. The Japan Kennel Club has assumed its functions regarding Akitas, since it is an all-breed registry and has had reciprocal registration privileges with the AKC and CKC since 1992, when importation of Akitas from Japan to America began again.
Problems between what has come to be called the American type Akita and the "Japanese" Akita arose first in European and South and Central American countries where the Akita is shown at shows governed by the Federation Cynologie Internationale or FCI.
Since standards differ from one country to another, FCI policy has been to accept the standard from the country of origin for the breed unless none exists.  In that case, they use the standard from the country of patronage, that is the country that is recognized for preserving the breed.  For instance, Siberian Huskies no longer exist in Russia.  The breed was developed and preserved in the United States, so the AKC standard used by the FCI since we are considered the country of patronage.
Obviously, a country of origin exists for the Akita, and their standard was used for the Akita.  The AKIHO standard was written in 1955 and can easily be construed to cover most American Akitas within its parameters.  The standard of the JKC, however, is much more restrictive, and when the FCI adopted it in the early 1990s, problems arose.
Until then, most of the Akitas imported into FCI countries had been from the US and Canada.  Many of these imports as well as their offspring had achieved FCI championships.  The FCI’s adoption of the JKC standard for Akitas caused a great deal of controversy because it lists black masks as a fault.  Further, under pressure from the JKC, FCI instructs its judges that a dog with a black mask cannot be given an excellent rating, which then makes the dog ineligible for a championship.
Suddenly people with Akitas imported from or descended from American dogs were disenfranchised.  Even their champion dogs were unshowable.  They were very upset by this turn of events and began pressuring their FCI delegates to do something about the problems.  As a result, this year, the FCI has divided what is one breed in the English-speaking countries of the United States, Canada, Australia, and Great Britain, into two.  The "Japanese Akita" is comprised of dogs imported from Japan or dogs from stock that was recently imported.  Stock that descends from earlier exports primarily to the US and Canada is considered a "Great Japanese Dog (formerly know as the American Akita)"  The former are governed by the JKC standard, while the latter fall under what is essentially the AKC one.
The issue came before the membership of the Akita Club of America in the form of a straw poll asking whether the membership wanted to the ACA board to pursue splitting the breed.  A sound majority of the membership indicated they were not interested in considering a split.
While this issue has been debated, Japanese imports have been arriving on American shores. Some of these dogs have been bred to domestic stock; others have been bred only within the new import lines. These dogs have entered the rings of the US and Canada in both breed and obedience and have acquited themselves well considering how few dogs are here.   From 1992 to 1998, under a 100 imports have been registered with the AKC although more dogs of pure-import stock exist because of breedings since the original dogs arrived and because not all are registered with AKC.
Currently, to accomplish this, an Akita has to be registered with JKC before export.  This requirement means that dogs of pure AKIHO registration already in the US are not eligible for registration.  Certainly AKIHO is the largest registry.  The web page for the JKC reports only 573 Akitas registered with it to date. Many of these were probably exported.

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  Akita QUICK FACTS:

  The Akita is a Japanese breed and in his native country, the Akita has been declared a national treasure.  An Akita in a

  home is believed to be a symbol of good health, prosperity and good fortune.  Helen Keller brought the first Akita to the United States in 1937.

  Akitas do not bark unless there is a good reason.  When an Akita is barking, pay attention. Akitas are natural guardians

  of the home and do not require any training to turn them into guard dogs.  When there is a reason to protect family and property, your Akita will act to do so.

  Akitas are inherently aggressive toward other animals (because they are naturally dominant in a pack) and for this reason, they should not be allowed to run free or roam

  at will.  Akitas may consider small animals as prey and hunt them.  This includes cats, rodents, birds, small wildlife and small dogs.  Akitas can be raised to accept animals in residence.  Some adult Akitas can even be trained to fit into a home where other animals are already established.  It is, however, imperative that the Akita be closely watched around the other animals until you have established a peaceful co-existence.

  Akitas are VERY food and toy possessive.  If you have other pets, you will want to be certain the Akita is given it's own food

  bowl or treat well away from any other animals and that no other animal is allowed near the Akita until the food is gone.

  Some Akitas are talkers! They may grunt, groan and mumble to entertain themselves and you.  This conversational

  verbalizing IS NOT growling and should not be interpreted as a growl, which sounds quite different.  Akita "talking" is an endearing trait and should not frighten you. 

  Most Akitas enjoy carrying things around in their mouth, including your wrist!  They may take you by the wrist to lead

  you to the cookie cupboard or to their lead.  It is not an aggressive act, it is an endearing trait.  Try allowing your Akita to bring in the newspaper or the mail. 

  Akitas are very family oriented and are not happy when kept apart from the family.  If you do not plan on having your

  dog live with you inside both your home and yard, you should not seriously consider an Akita for a pet.

  Akitas will live from 10-14 years with good care and proper nutrition.

  KNOWN DISEASES AKITAS ARE PRONE TO:  Bloat.  Hypothyroid disease affects a large percentage of the breed and is easily treated by twice daily hormone replacement therapy.  A simple blood test, including a T3 and T4 thyroid levels test, will determine the existence of the condition.  The symptoms may include one or all of the following:  skin and coat problems, sudden onset aggression, itching, lethargy, musky odor.  Before treating skin conditions with any drugs, have your vet check for sarcoptic mange, sebaceous adenitis, and Hypothyroid disease.  Other diseases found in Akitas include Progressive Retinal Atrophy (blindness) manifested by impaired night vision, hip knee and elbow problems, autoimmune diseases, degenerative myelopathy, and some blood disorders, though these are not common problems in the breed.

  The Akita as a house pet...
   Even though Akitas are large, hardy dogs which can withstand the elements, they have been bred for centuries to be house companions.  The two most outstanding characteristics of the Akita as a house pet are that they are very clean and that they are very easy to house break.  Akitas have been described as almost "cat-like," they are so clean and odorless.  This may also be one of the reasons why they housebreak so easily.  Most Akitas respond so well to housebreaking that they are trained in a matter of days.  We have had several instances where they go to the new home and never have an accident.  If your Akita is not fully trained by four months you are doing something incorrectly or you need to have them checked for a UTI which might have been caused from dehydration....

  The Akita, although a large dog, does not require huge amounts of exercise.  It will thrive on a moderate amount of exercise and enjoys playing energetically.  Mine like to wrestle each other daily.
  Akitas do not shed on a continual basis; however, they do "blow their coats" about twice a year.  As the new coat is beginning to grow into place, large tufts of hair will loosen.  The coat can be easily removed by using an undercoat rake or wire slicker brush, or I personally scratch vigorously.  Mine like the extra attention and have no idea the extra rub has purpose.
  Akita's high intelligence carries an obligation with it.  An Akita won't be happy if left alone in a pen or house all day.  A working dog enjoys life most when he is given a responsibility and a job to do, whether the job is obedience, baby-sitting (Japanese mothers left their children with their Akitas), back-packing, or hunting.  The Akita demands your attention and thrives on it when trained and worked regularly.
  Dominance is more a state of mind, but you must also be prepared to physically dominate the dog if necessary.  Akitas, as with most dogs, live their lives in a pack environment, whether the pack be animals or people.  If you are not willing to be the leader of the pack, the Akita most certainly will.  So the Akita owner must have the energy and will to keep a firm, consistent discipline as the dog matures.  A little work and persistence in training in the early months with an Akita will reap you huge benefits as a well behaved member of the family down the road.  See more in puppy care.

  The Akita as a guard dog...

  The Akita can be a guard dog but I feel a Lab is a better guard dog.  An Akita is more of a protector because there is less talk and more action.  He feels that one of his jobs is to protect his family.  You don't need to train him to do this; it comes naturally to him.  He will be watchful of people on your property, expressing suspicion with a low rumble; Akitas are not barkers.  They quickly learn to differentiate between strangers and friends.  Akitas are not tolerant of other dogs especially those of the same sex.  As they mature, if not properly socialized early on, please be responsible and muzzle them in public, especially at the vet's office.
    

  NOTE:  I would also like to add that for some strange reason people sometimes believe that the puppy is going to pop out of the womb and protect you.  This may seem odd to you that I have to write this but on several occasions, based on what people read online on other sites, there is confusion regarding the protective nature of the Akita.  IT DEVELOPS OVER TIME!!!  Do not expect a puppy that is 8 weeks old and just met you to protect you.  When the puppy gets closer to adolescence, it will become more aloof and more protective but it is ridiculous to believe that a little furbaby that weighs 20 pounds is going to guard you like a hawk.  You don't have to teach them to guard but you do need to give them a chance to grow up.

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  When buying a pup:

  *not in any particular order other than how they rattle out of my brain...

  One thing people find very confusing is they are told just about any puppy has show potential and they think this means their puppy is of the same quality as what they see on tv dog shows when in fact nothing could be further from the truth and most of the time the people stating the dog has show potential aren't even sure what it means themselves.  Show potential means that your dog comes with AKC full registration so it could enter a show if you wanted to.  This in no way means that your dog would be competitive.  Show QUALITY is what people think of when they see dogs advertised as having show potential.  Show quality means that the puppy has been evaluated by a qualified handler to assess its ability to acquire a championship in the AKC comformation ring.  Here are some things I personally think every adopter/buyer should ask a breeder and/or rescue before adding a dog to their family and/or kennel.  I think if you use all of these as criteria to pick a puppy you will be surprised at how small your pool of possible choices will narrow:

  How long has the breeder/rescue been in business?

  What health problems have they encountered (they all have) and what did they do to rectify this? i.e. were the parents and offspring spayed/neutered and the adopters compensated in some way

  Where do there dogs live - ask for pictures - also where do pups live - happy dogs make happy puppies - atmosphere plays a huge role.

  Do they compete with their dogs and in what fashion?  If they never have, how are they qualified to judge puppies to provide you with adequate information on them?

  What happens when a family/kennel has been unable to keep their pup?  Good breeders will go to any length to save their pups and rehome them.  If they have been involved with this hobby for long they should have had to do so - if they say they haven't there is a good chance they just don't keep up with their puppies enough to know where they are.  Ask for proof...

  Do they provide written testimonials or references - if they haven't will they - you should see several - I personally have over 100 just online alone?

  How many pictures do they take and are they play photos and stacked photos?  I want to see how the dogs live, not just how they look when stacked after a grooming session.  Look at their surroundings, cleanliness etc.

  How old are the parents - this is HUGE - a year and a half is minimum.  Six years should be a maximum unless the stud owner is providing frozen semen.  If the bitch is younger than this she has not had time to fill out and grow up = bad mom is more likely or at least inexperienced.  Is this who you want raising the next member of your family.  Also how long are the pups alone without human contact.  In the first couple of weeks there is extreme risk of mom squishing pups accidentally so I sleep with mine - they are never unsupervised.

  What does the pedigree look like.  You might not be wanting a show dog but you need to know who was bred to who to make sure that you are comfortable owning puppies of possible relatives.  Breeders that have accidents don't advertise this - why would they - so you need to know how to find out for yourself.  An example would be a breeder of Akitas in Phoenix in early 2011 sold puppies as show quality for $2500 that were Champion sired - sounds great right - maybe - are you okay with the mom being bred on her first heat at ten months to her father - if you don't know how to read a pedigree and you bought into this litter, that is what you got for your hard earned $2500.  (The mother of this litter was then placed up for sale herself!)

  What has the mom been eating and what are the puppies eating and can the breeder speak intelligently to you about foods to help you chose the right one?  See the food information on this page to double check.

  How old are the pups when the breeder allows you to get them.  The ideal age to get a pup is between 7 and 9 weeks.  They should have been eating softened kibble of some sort (high quality, low protein) for several weeks already as well as some dry.  If you are getting an older pup, that is fine but it shouldn't be younger.  Socialization in the litter is key to the pup becoming a well rounded adult.  This is how they learn to behave.  The older they are, after this period, the more difficult their transition to your home will be.

  Are they already poddy training?  An Akita pup can be almost 100 percent poddy trained at 7 weeks with very few accidents after that if the breeder has begun working on it but if they are in a kennel, don't count on it.

  What medical things have been done?  Good breeders will at least provide microchip with registration, Bordatella (kennel cough) vaccine, and puppy series DHLPP as age appropriate usually given at 6, 9, 12 and 16 weeks, and rabies is required if the pup is 13 weeks upon transfer as well as at least one vet check.  You should receive some sort of proof of all of these.  They should also provide you with a schedule of what vaccines are required in the future.

  Do they talk to you about getting a Prophylactic Gastropexy (tacking of the lining of the stomach to prevent twisting due to gastric torsion AKA bloat)?  As bloat affects so many of our dear furfriends in the Akita breed, breeders should be knowledgable on the treatment and prevention of it and communicate this to you.

  What do they require of you besides money?  They should at least try to get to know you before placing a dog in your care, or have you fill out a questionnaire, to be sure that you are a good home.  Don't take offense.  Be glad that someone cares enough about your future furfamily member to do so.  Wouldn't you if you placed one of your own dogs?

  Will they require you to keep in touch?

  Can you meet and interact with the parents - even if you are too far away to do so, will they let you - can the dogs interact with strangers and will they let you come to their home?  If not they are probably hiding something.

  Why did they breed this litter?  They should have good reasons, not including money, because if they are hoping to make money they must be feeding inferior food or charging really high prices for pets meaning it's a business not a hobby.  They should have a goal regarding what they wanted to produce and why these two specifics dogs should make it together.

  Are they requiring you to spay/neuter and giving you limited AKC registration?

  Are they willing to communicate with you at length about their dogs and dogs in general to be sure they get to know you a bit and answer any questions you might have?

  Are they guaranteeing the pup's health for at least a year?  Most genetic issues are obvious by that time, some are not.  What is their guarantee and if something happens to the pup, will you be okay with what they offer to give you - i.e. if they only offer a replacement pup instead of compensation for medical expenses, are you willing to pay additional shipping and get another pup and will it have the same issues?  Good breeders won't want you to return the pup that is already attached to you and vice versa, so they should rather compensate you financially, unless of course you choose to get another pup as a playmate, and don't already have other dogs.  If you were not already getting another pup, this might be unlikely so think about all of this in advance because you never know what might happen.  I personally have only had a couple of instances where issues might have been genetic and I allowed the family to choose whether they wanted compensation or another pet.  If you are getting the dog as a show dog, you should absolutely receive another show pup or a refund.  If your pup has a genetic issues, you cannot show or breed it so your money was spent in vein as you now have a very costly pet.

  Most importantly, do you mind supporting this person?  Don't take a dog/pup to get it out of an atmosphere.  I hear that alot from people that get pet store pups and that is tragic, if no one bought them they would go out of business or at least stop carrying particular breeds and this would be great for Akitas as pet stores don't know how to educate owners properly.  The same goes for breeders.  You should only get the pup from this person if you are proud to say where they came from and if you whole heartedly agree with the person's ethics regarding breeding and how they house and treat their own dogs!  IF not - RUN - your search is not yet over!

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  Socialization/Behavioral Analysis for our 7 week old puppies prior to placement

  "At seven weeks of age, except for a small amount of learned behavior, the puppies are almost clean slates." - John Fisher from

  Think Dog An Owner's Guide to Canine Psychology

  When the pup is 7 weeks of age, it will participate in an analysis to determine the natural level of dominance that the pup was born with and will continue to develop as it ages.  The test will be performed by an unbiased third party, that the pup is not familiar with, with an easy to understand ranking scale to help you chose the pup according to its behavior, even from afar.

  Stimuli	How	Score
  Social Attraction	Place pup in center of room. Move away and call pup by any means.  Does pup come to you?	1.  Coming readily and excitedly - 5.  Completely ignoring tester
  Following	Stroke pup several times. Walk away.	1.  Follows happily - 5.  Ignores tester
  Restraint	Roll pup on back. Hold for 30 seconds.	1.  Struggles fiercly to get up, may bite. - 5.  Offers no resistance
  Social Dominance	Firmly rub dominance region of pup (around withers, head, and neck.)	1.  Reversed dominance - 5.  Ignored dominance
  Elevation Dominance	Cradle pup's midsection in both hands holding it above ground  (couple of inches) for 30 seconds.	1.  Kicks and whine, tries to bite - 5.  Stays limp

  What do these test results mean to you?  If you are choosing a pet to be a family member, then they should fit into your family.  While some of their behavior is learned from surroundings and personalities, most of it is from predisposition at birth.  A pup continuously scoring ones would be a dominant adult and will take a lot more "breaking".  A pup scoring 2 will be relatively dominant pup can be corrected with guidance.  A pup scoring 3s will be submissive and a  happy family member.  A pup scoring 4 will be very submissive to you.  A pup scoring 5s may be scared easily and may need direction not to snap.  While these are not an exact science, they are relatively close.  We hope that this comparison will help you chose a pet by behavior that fits your family instead of on looks alone.

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Food:

I do not promote any food any longer and what we feed varies with availability in what we have to supplement with.  I will provide you with information to make your own informed decision here!  Grain free is best as dogs were not meant to nor are they equipped to digest grains.  We currently feed Nature's Domain which is a Salmon based grain free food.  DO NOT feed any food to any dog you care about that contains ground yellow corn or variation thereof and DO NOT feed animal by products which is simply the part of the animal they cant use for anything else ground up - eyeballs, tails etc.  As a general rule, any food cut in a cute shape or is multiple colors is junk.  If it has to look pretty for you to buy it then it probably isn't very healthy.  The food should be primarily the same color coming out as it was going in or if the color has changed dramatically, it means that your dog just absorbed alot of chemical dyes!  Keep food bowls clean all the way to the bottom so that mold does not grow from the moisture of dripped water and/or drool which leads to worms and typically darker foods are better.   

Good Foods:  Grain Free foods, anything with fish as first ingredient that has no corn or animal by product, BARF/Raw if done correctly with vegetables, Innova, Flint River Ranch Fish N Chips, Nutro, Blue Buffalo Wilderness, typically I like to stay with a grainfree food.

Mediocre Foods:  Purina One, Kirkland Brand Foods, Nutra Nuggets

Lower Grade Foods:   Science Diet, Chicken Soup,  Diamond Foods, Iams, Eukanuba, Purina Hi Pro, Red Flannel

Foods that pets should not be fed:  Any grocery store brand, Ol Roy, Alpo, Purina Dog Chow and Puppy Chow, Purina Beneful, Pedigree, Kibbles and Bits, Sam Club

***Send me your food label and I will add it to the list - this list is simply my opinion made by breaking down what is on the label.

We will also begin supplementing with scrambled egg with a bit of milk, pinch of cheese for taste and dash of garlic for taste and healthy immune system.  You can continue this throughout the life of your dog as it is better for them and cheaper than processed canned food but as a pup, do not go more than one egg in the am and one in the pm.  (This is also a good protein source for pregnant/lactating females, studding males, active dogs, or underweight dogs.) We will no longer make any recommendations as to a store bought wet food due to the many recent recalls of national brands leading to death or permanent disorders.  We are consistent with wanting our dogs and pups to take in natural foods without fillers and that have the proper oils to keeps them from itching.  If it is realistic for you to feed human foods such as turkey, fish and veggies, etc., I can send you a great table of what a dog should eat.  Your local feed store can also provide you with an abundance of information on this matter and they would know about specific concerns of your geographical area but please read and understand the label. 

I have repeatedly seen back and forth about not changing your dogs diet rapidly versus offering different foods daily for breaking up a routine.  I have gotten a similar answer from most vets that I ask and Nutro has now put it in writing in pamphlets that they offer at Petsmarts and Petcos.  Here is my answer:  It is detrimental to the digestive system of the dog to change their food repeatedly and rapidly.  If you are switching brands of food you should do it slowly mixing the two together to wean one in and the other out over a period of five days.  However many people find, when switching to Flint River Ranch, that their dog will pick out and eat the FRR and leave the old food in the bowl.  Your dogs is humorously showing you that he instinctively knows best.  (BE CAREFUL WHO YOU TAKE ANSWERS FROM and check me as well.  I have seen some breeders telling people to change the dog's food so that they have a variety.   Everyone I talk to (vets, greyhound adoption companies, Nutro, vet techs) says absolutely not to do this.) 

You should eat in front of your dog to maintain Alpha status.  Then give your dog their bowl of food.  You need to be the provider of food.  A constant supply of food/treats is not recommended.  If the dog does not eat their food, pick it up and give it back to them at the next meal time.  Be sure to allow a lot of time for eating during three meals a day for adults.  *Puppies should have access to food all the time unless you are having dominance issues and need more control over food to help alleviate them!  Exercise should wait a minimum of two hours after eating.  (NOTE:  rapid eating and immediate exercise are huge added risk factors for deep chested dogs to get bloat.)

Supplementing with Fish:

I like to stick to oily fish to use as supplements because they contain vitamins A, D, and OMEGA-3 Fatty Acids, my favorite being Tuna because you don't have to worry with de-boning it.  I also like to use Mackerel, Salmon, Sardines and occasionally Anchovies.  Any of these should be canned it water, NOT OIL, because the water will help keep down an already high salt content.  Another way to reduce salt content, if you are having problems with excessive water intake after eating fish, would be to drain the canning fluid and let the fish re-soak in water and then drain that as well.  This will remove a bit of the salt using during packaging/preserving.  If water is still a problem then discontinue using fish all together.  I personally do not have a problem and use the fluid to mix with regular kibble to add the fish flavor to the entire meal!  I like to use fish because my Akitas do better with fish than chicken and/or beef (which gives them diarrhea) and because it is much more healthy for the dogs.

Supplementing with Turkey, Chicken and Beef:

If you choose to supplement with chicken and/or beef, you may notice a much runnier stool.  Do not use skin or dark meat or fat as it is more difficult for a dog to break down.  Also, make sure that the fat content is not too high in beef and be sure to drain it really well.  DO NOT FEED RAW unless you have done extensive research ahead of time and know how to balance the Akita's diet (you have to make sure that they get meat, bones and veggies on a raw diet) and have made sure that your meat source does not use steroids on the animals nor are the animals grazing foods that have been treated with pesticides.  If this is the case you might as well feed the pesticide to the Akita because that is essentially what has happened - the old saying goes, you are what you eat!  Our favorite way to supplement with chicken is to buy canned white meat chicken and dump all of the contents on a bowl of food and the dogs love the flavoring of the juice.  This is also a good protein source for pregnant/lactating females, studding males, active dogs, or underweight dogs.

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Vitamins-

As an adult, add Glucosamine with MSM Chondroitin for healthy joint cartilage or switch to senior food which contains it which I suggest all Akitas begin at two years of age and continue for life to better the longevity of their joints.  In addition, I personally like a few products that are premixed in a powder for canines.  For vitamins, I like Nature's Pharmacy's Ultimate powder, for coat I like Show Stopper and Inflight Formula.  All three are available online.

These are some vitamins we use to help boost our Akita's immune system and overall health.  Another side benefit is that some of them, specifically E, helps with a nicer coat.  (Thanks to Jeff Melnick for vitamin recommendations.  Acetyl L-Carnitine 250 mg, Vitamin c 2000mg, Vitamin E 1000I.U., Billsberry 1000mg, Super B Complex 1, Zinc 50mg all given daily.  You would want to build up to adding vitamins to your dog's diet so as not to upset their stomach.  I find the easiest way to serve them is to lift the dog's jaw with my right hand and hold it still while I put the pill at the back of the dog's throat with my left hand.  DO NOT SUPPLEMENT A PUPPY WITH VITAMINS BUT SIMPLY FEED A GOOD FOOD CONTAINING THEM.  WHEN YOU ADD VITAMINS TO YOUR ADULT'S DIET, ADD HUMAN VITAMINS AS PET VITAMINS AREN'T NEARLY AS WELL REGULATED.

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Grooming-

Spitz shed their full undercoat twice a year.  Owners should expect almost all of the fur on their under coat to be shed twice a year (sometimes three times).  This is hormonal, not regarding the weather so do not be alarmed when your Akita starts blowing their coat in chucks during the winter; this is normal.  They will re-grow this fur quickly.  Special care should be taken of the Akita in extreme temperatures to ensure the dog’s comfort, they do need air conditioning in the summer.  Light shedding will still occur throughout the year just as it does with humans.  Akitas like to keep themselves clean and are known as the cleanest dogs in the AKC registry.  They self cleanse like a cat.  They do not wish to be dirty.  However, bathing too often can dry out their fur leading to itching.  You should use a slicker brush at least every couple of days to stimulate the hair folicules to keep the coat in top condition.  I like using a variety of combs and brushes, especially the furminator, during the coat blow to get more out during one grooming session.  Bathing the Akita in warm water will loosen the hair folicules to get out more fur at once when the coat dries.

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Timeline

These are things, that I have observed that happen to Akitas as they grow up.  (This is all my opinion through my own observations!)  Every Akita is slightly different obviously, as they all develop at different stages but these are some things to look for (Also, females tend to progress faster than males):

Day One - Whelp, from this point until their eyes open, they scoot around looking for food.

Week Two - Pups open their eyes and start learning to use their back legs

Week Three - Pups look like little Akitas (previously had no fuzzy hair and little legs and pitbull looking heads)  They should have their teeth in at this point and be walking well.  We start to finger feed them soft food to get them used to licking and working things around in their mouths.

Week Four - Pup is starting to lose whatever natural immune protection he got from his mother.  (That is why it is imperative to begin vaccinating at 6 weeks of age to give the pup back some immunity.  NOTE:  Vaccinating prior to 6 weeks won't help because the vaccination will be counter productive to the mother's collustrum).

Week Six - Physical proportions are in line with what pup should look like as an adult.  This does not last long as so a growth spurt will hit and knock off the proportions.  Some puppies' ears will start to come up.  (Others will wait until as long as 5 months) Puppy Vaccine is needed.

Week Seven - Pup has developed socially into what he will be and can be dominance or behavior tested to find out what his natural behavioral preference is.  Previously it would have been detrimental to his social development to remove him from his "litter classroom".

Week Nine - Puppy Vaccine Needed

Week Six to Thirteen - Pup's ears begin to perk up.  This is a slow process and the ears can VERY grandually rise or they can pop up and fall many times throughout the process (or any variation in between!)

Week Sixteen - Pup is ready for rabies vaccination.  Normally, vets will say that about a week after the rabies vaccine the pup is ready to be socialized in public.  NOTE:  You cannot take you pup to a dog park prior to vaccinating for rabies, nor should you because it is a huge health risk!  If you are in an area with other health risks, you may not want to begin socialization in public so soon.  You can always socialize your pet in private.  Puppy Vaccine is needed. 

Week Seventeen - Pups Rabies and Puppy vaccines should be in full effect if you have given them on time.  He can begin to socialize with other animals with caution.

Month 4 - Canine eyes are physically mature and can be checked by an opthamologist beginning at this age to check for abnormalties or genetic defects.

Month Six - Akita begins to look like an adult (size).  Physical proportions are again close to what they will be during adulthood.  Ears should be up at this point, if not, consult your breeder.

Month Six to Twelve:  - Females will have there first heat cycle.  Some cultures believe this is their most productive heat.  However, most western vets will explain that even if this heat does produce the best pups (which is highly debatable), it is totally at the mother's expense.  She is nowhere near finished with her own development so having a litter at this age takes nutrition away from the mother that she needs to finish her own development.  Therefore, if she is not fixed by this time, every precaution should be taken to keep her away from in-tact males.  NOTE:  Many females will begin fighting with other females during this time.  Once they fight with another Akita, they must be separated from that point on.

Month Six to Twelve - Akita males will begin to fight with other males to dominate their pack.  (Yes, even if they are neutered and have grown up with the male they are fighting prior to this point.  Once there is a fight between them, the Akita will remember it and "hold a grudge".  He will have to be separated from the other male from this point on.

Month Twelve to Twenty four - Akita's head begins to triangle out.  This is an extremely slow and gradual process. 

Month Twenty four - Akita is physically mature.  (But will still fill out even more over the next year.)  Xrays can be taken and sent to OFA or PennHip to determine the quality of the hips/patellas etc.

Month Twenty four - start Akita on daily Glucosamine to protect joints

3 to 4 years - Akita should be their full potential regarding both physical growth and mental maturity.  This is their prime

7 years - Akita is now a senior citizen

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Toxins: 

(If you know of others, please feel free to let me know! If you question whether or not something your dog ate is toxic, take it with you to the vet!  All of the toxins below can easily kill your pet!!!!!)

*****    FOOD:

Chocolate

The chocolate used for baking causes a dog's heartbeat to speed rapidly.  Alot of chocolate, while not good for the dog, does not have the same affect.  When Plop was a pup, he got a pound of my fudge and I worried myself sick but as it turns out, he was fine, ever after ingesting a pound of fudge!  If you question what kind of chocolate your dog ate, better to be safe than sorry and go to the vet.

I found this table coutesty of:  Sandridge Papillons.....

Lethal Dose of Chocolate by Dog's Weight
Dog's Weight	Lethal Dose of Theobromide	Milk Chocolate	Unsweetened Chocolate
5 lbs	200 mg	4 oz	0.5 oz
10 lbs	400 mg	8 oz	1 oz
20 lbs	900 mg	1 lb	2.5 oz
30 lbs	1300 mg	2 lbs	3.25 oz
40 lbs	1800 mg	2.5 lbs	4.5 oz
50 lbs	2250 mg	3 lbs	5.5 oz
60 lbs	2700 mg	4 lbs	7 oz

 

*****    FLOWERS:

If your dog eats a flower or plant that you think is poisionous but aren't quite sure, take it with you to the vet.

Oleander:  Various color shrub that blooms early in spring and lasts through summer.  They can in large and small varieties of many colors.  They are extremely hardy so if you need to get rid of one, I would dig it up to remove the root as well and if in question, poor gas on it and/or burn it responsibly of course!

Close up of bloom on left and whole shrub on right

   

Poinsetta:  Christmas Flower

Comes in red, pink and white varieties around Christmas time but can be kept alive year round indoors

*****    AMPHIBEONS

TOADS

We were first told about these toads when we moved to the town of Maricopa although they can be found all over Arizona as well as some other states.  The toads are huge, ranging from 3 to 9 inches (usually) in diameter, not counting the legs.  Shortly after I moved, our FRR food was delivered to the wrong house and the gentleman that received it was nice enough to bring it by and warn me about these toads and the rattlers when he saw all of the dogs.  Normally, the toads come out when it is wet, especially during monsoon season but Sisha got hers in late April when it has been completely dry for a long time.  I quickly did internet research and called my local emergency vet as it was during a bathroom break about 12:30 am when she killed it.  My findings were:

it is normal to have this happen at night because the toads like it dark and wet - USE FLOOD LIGHTS AT NIGHT, ESPECIALLY DURING MONSOONS

the secretion on the neck is what is toxic. if the dog has had it in it's mouth or the toad was in the water dish or pool, you need to worry.  Rinse the dog's mouth out with a water house and clean the gums and tongue with your fingers WITHOUT LETTING THE DOG SWALLOW THE WATER!  Keep doing this as the longer you do it, the more toxin you get out and the better your dog's chances for survival are!  If your dog begins to show symptoms of the toxin being in them, go the your ER immediately!

                symptoms are:  foamy mouth, excessive licking, mouth irritation, difficulty breathing, weakness, collapse, rapid or abnormal heartbeat, fever, vomiting, diarrhea and

• seizures

My ER vet said, although they cannot diagnose without seeing each individual dog, usually if the dog is going to show symptoms, they do it within an hour of their contact with the toad.

SNAKES:

   

Prevention:

Block walls help keep snakes out tremendously

If you have another type of fencing and cannot change it, get tarps or fabric to discourage snakes from entering through the fencing

A snake is said to stay within 300 yards of where it was born so if it is on your property, it is probably there to stay so I would personally be getting someone to kill it!

Get your dog snake tested to keep them away from snakes.  Contact your local feed store or vet to find out who does snake testing locally.  We are currently checking into doing this ourselves so check back with us!  Snake testing uses a de-fanged snake with the venom removed.  Through a series of shocks during sight, sound and smell of a snake, the dog learns to stay away from them!

There are anti-venoms used in a series of vaccines that you can get your dog on.  Usually it is three shots 3 months apart.  This reduces the affect of the snake venom, should the dog ever get bit.

If your dog is bit or has swelling on the face especially but it could get bit anywhere, rush to the closest vet!  Your dog needs anti-venom and intraveneous fluids, pain meds and antibiotics immediately or it could die or get tissue damage!   DO NOT TOUCH THE WOUND!  You dog is in an enormous amount of pain and needs to be treated and given the medication as fast as possible!  Akitas usually need about two anti-venom shots when bit and each is about $600 alone so be prepared for a vet bill of $1000 or more depending on your vets charges.  They will also, more than likely, go home with steroids, antibiotics, pain meds etc and need several more check up visits to look for and treat tissue damage!

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Competing:

AGILITY

http://www.akc.org/events/agility/index.cfm

• Agility is the ultimate game for you and your dog. It also one of the most exciting canine sports for spectators. In agility, a dog demonstrates is agile nature and versatility by following cues from the handler through a timed obstacle course. The course has jumps, tunnels, weave poles, and other obstacles. Agility strengthens the bond between dogs and handlers, it is extremely fun, and it provides vigorous exercise for both!
   

CANINE GOOD CITIZEN - ANY AKITA SHOULD ATTAIN THIS

http://www.akc.org/events/cgc/index.cfm

• Many dog owners choose Canine Good Citizen training as the first step in training their dogs. The Canine Good Citizen Program lays the foundation for other AKC activities such as obedience, agility, tracking, and performance events. As you work with your dog to teach the CGC skills, you'll discover the many benefits and joys of training your dog. Training will enhance the bond between you and your dog. Dogs who have a solid obedience education are a joy to live with-they respond well to household routines, have good manners in the presence of people and other dogs, and they fully enjoy the company of the owner who took the time to provide training, intellectual stimulation, and a high quality life. We sincerely hope that CGC will be only a beginning for you and your dog and that after passing the CGC test, you'll continue training in obedience, agility, tracking, or performance events.
   

CONFORMATION

http://www.akc.org/events/conformation/index.cfm

• Dog shows, or "conformation" events, are the signature events of the AKC. They concentrate on the distinctive features of purebred dogs and help to preserve these characteristics by providing a forum at which to evaluate breeding stock.  Exhibits are judged against individual breed standards, which have been established for the AKC-recognized breeds by their parent clubs. These written standards describe the ideal size, color, and temperament of each breed, as well as correct proportion, structure, and movement.

• Our guide to picking a handler

How to hire a handler:

Watch the handler at a show and see their rapport with dogs they are working other than their own (clients' dogs)

Talk to others that have used this handler before or have been around them for years ringside - not the references they provide you with because obviously those will be the ones that make them look best

Get a rate sheet and contract and see if important things to you are included (Usually handlers charge mileage and expenses per show, $70 to $80 to handle a show, and boarding - about $7 per day)

Have the handler meet you at your home if you can so they can see you with your dogs and see what you are about

Listen to handler, and truly listen (don't talk at all) about how they work, their plan to train your dogs, including how far in advance they plan schedules and do you enter the show or do they- shows close mid-week so its difficult to plan entries at the last minute, especially if you work, how do they find maors and when do they start looking, start your dog at small shows, how many dogs they have handled recently in your breed - if not many then they won't know which shows and udges are best for your dogs particular look and demeanor, are they currently contracted with someone in your breed - if they are, you'll be last priority to finishing that client's dog, what will it take for your dog to win, how will they train, how long are we looking at etc, how much contact will they keep with you- will you at least know if your dog wins a show that day and what points were attained of do they simply give you progress reports every so often and are THEY actually going to handle the dog or simply bill you and pass the dog to someone less qualified ringside, what else will they bill your credit card for?

Give them your dog, see if they have an immediate rapport with your dog without being heavy handed.  Does your dog like them and are they excited about your dog?  If they are excited your dog will finish at least twice as fast.  If you have a warm fuzzy continue, if not RUN

Let them know what you expect and what is important to you so they know if you are a realistic client, if not then you shouldn't work together or you will only irritate them.  I personally care only if the dog has fun so handlers that go to finish fast no matter the costs are not a good fit for me and vice versa...

OBEDIENCE

http://www.akc.org/events/obedience/index.cfm

• Obedience Trials test a dog's ability to perform a prescribed set of exercises on which it is scored. In each exercise, you must score more than 50 percent of the possible points and get a total score of at least 170 out of a possible 200. Each time your dog gets at least a 170 qualifying score, he's earned a "leg" toward his title. Earn three legs and your dog has just earned an obedience title! There are 3 levels at which your dog can earn a title and each is more difficult than the one before it. The classes are divided into "A" and "B" at an obedience trial; "A" classes are for beginners whose dogs have never received a title and "B" classes are for more experienced handlers.

TRACKING

http://www.akc.org/events/tracking/index.cfm

• The purpose of a tracking test is to demonstrate the dog's ability to recognize and follow human scent, a skill that is useful in the service of mankind. 
  Tracking, by nature, is a vigorous, noncompetitive outdoor sport. Tracking tests demonstrate the willingness and enjoyment of the dog in its work, and should always represent the best in sportsmanship and camaraderie by the people involved.

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  So you think you want to be a Breeder...Or at least, you have not yet decided to spay or neuter your pet...

  "Some say Akitas are being overbred; I say Akitas are now underbred by the RIGHT people!"

  AFTER YEARS OF THIS PAGE BEING HERE to talk people out of breeding, it is still misunderstood so I am going to paraphrase by stating this:  most dog owners should not have an unaltered dog because of the additional responsibility, not only of puppies but of the ways your dog is a different pet due to hormones!  BREEDING your dogs should not be an accident or something that "they decide to do" it should be something you plan for for a LONG time!!!  You should know everything I know about Akitas and breeding if you are even considering having an unaltered dog!!!! I repeat YOU SHOULD KNOW EVERYTHING I KNOW ABOUT AKITAS AND BREEDING IF YOU ARE EVEN CONSIDERING OWNING AN UNALTERED DOG!!!!  *****TRIPLE THAT IF YOU HAVE CHILDREN!!!!! *****  AND, one last thought, please do not think that your pets can breed and have a litter and they will live happily ever after just because you can as a human.  The difference is that as a human, you love your children when they grow up, when an Akitas children grow up, the parents will want to kill them!!

  Let's see how well you have thought this through...  Below is the harsh truth so you may get angry at me when you read it but it will prepare you for having a unaltered-canine.

  First of all, you did

   think about this right?  If it didn't occur to you that your male, if not altered, will find a way to get to a female if he can smell her (and please don't underestimate the strength of dogs' sense of smell).  If you have a female, who isn't altered, when she is ready, she will be mated whether you want her to or not if you haven't taken proper precautions.  It is unhealthy for dogs to breed constantly and a female's body can't take carrying, having, and feeding babies every heat.  This is called CRUELTY.

  If you don't want to be a Breeder, then look on the internet or go to your local Animal Control officer, if you don't have a regular vet, and find out where to get a low-cost spay/neuter.  Your dog or bitch can develop cancers in the genetalia, so if they aren't going to use them, they might as well not have them.  Also, you may not want to breed but you will become a Breeder of "something" if you leave the situation uncared for. 

  Now, you say, I'm past all of that, I really do want to breed my animal.  Great, but let's ask why?  Hopefully your only answer is because you love your breed and want to produce quality animals that you are willing to take responsibility for for their entire life span.  If your answer includes any of the following: 

  • to make $ --- You will spend much more than you think, and probably much more than you could hope to recover in the cost of selling a pup, in the medical care alone.  Even if your bitch never needs a c-section and has no abnormal pregnancies and never has to be inseminated, you will not recuperate your vet bills.  This has not even factored in your facilities of whatever kind you choose, regular vet appointments, medicine, vaccinations, toys, whelping supplies, and food.

  • to show your children a whelp - kids do not need to see this.  It is a miracle but also a very messy one that might scare children.

  Please call your vet now to make a surgery appointment for your pet to be altered.

  So now, you actually are breeding for the right reason or else you would have stopped reading by now...  Are you prepared for what is about to happen next.  I like to think of it as "breeding affecting your senses"!  Every one of your senses will be affected by breeding.  Get ready for the most physical, emotional, and intellectual draining you have ever experienced but the most rewarding gift of your life.  Here's how:

  Sight

  You also need to look for the following in the female's reproductive cycle:

  • abnormalities

  • swollen vulvas

  • blood beginning

  • blood stopping

  • blood beginning again

  • blood stopping again

  • tummy growth

  • green discharge before the first pup comes out (sign of detached placenta - c-section will probably be needed)

  Smell

  • oh yes, you can smell her in heat too, just like he can

  • you also get the pleasure of smelling what he continually marks

  • you get to smell your whelping station as your puppies dribble milk, defecate, and urinate

  • most of all, you will never forget the smell of a whelp, it is not pleasant

  Touch

  • you will get messy with her fluids and the pups, not for the weak stomached

  • you will feel her tummy for walnuts (pups)

  • my favorite part, you will feel the kicks at the end of her pregnancy

  • you also get to cuddle your little fur ball and love it

  Sound

  • Your male will wine, bark and cry for females in heat

  • scratching from both male and female to get to each other

  • her cry in pain if it is her first mate

  • him cry in pain if she tries to chew off his pennis while he is turning around

  • heartbeats to listen for abnormalities in her tummy and to try to count pups

  • puppy cries and wines if you have them

  Taste

  You have now just spent so much time on your dogs, you lost your job and spent so much money on them, you can't afford your own groceries but you were responsible enough to have plenty of puppy chow on hand so enjoy your Kibble!

  Does this mean you are also prepared with the proper facilities?  Your dogs need shelter, but not shelter so far away from you that they don't get attention.  I personally believe a distant farm is not they way to go, although alot of Breeders do it.  If you are breeding for the right reasons, you will want to put yourself and you pups, and your dogs' health above the bar set by other Breeders.  You will strive to be the BEST!  Not only will your dogs need a shelter, but they should be comfortable too.  They need heat and air condition as canines have been domesticated.  You would not want to be thrown outside at 15 or 105 degrees and be expected to like it.  Also, you essentially need a place for every dog and every set of pups to be kept separate.  You don't know, until your dogs reach full maturity, whether or not they will ever fight.  That means if you have 2 dogs and 3 bitches, your need 8 places for dogs and pups that are separate from each other.

      In progress:  Your various jobs throughout the mating and pregnancy timeline

  Click here for info on mating...may be graphic!

  Here is one of my former pregnancy charts that I use for my ladies.  Your job will be in red.

  You notice swollen vulva	Bleeding will begin soon.  Hopefully you have a way to separate female from other dogs so she isn't mated if you don't want her to be or so she doesn't fight.
  Day or so later bleeding begins	Bleeding will last about a week.  If you have multiple males together, you will begin to have problems as they all want her and will fight.
  Bleeding stops	She is ready for mating - this lasts about a week.    At first she won't want it and will try to keep him away by turning quickly or sitting.  Then she will decide she is ready and will fan her bottom in the air for him to come get her.
  Bleeding begins again	She bleeds for another week or so.  She has no more use for him.  He might look proud if he has gotten her pregnant.
  If she isn't pregnant she goes back to normal.	If she is - see the next chart below:

   

   

  Mon 15 Aug 2005	First day of mating. 48 hours after the first mating the bitch should be mated again. Subsequent matings occurring over a period of time enhance the chances of fertilaziton taking place. The spermatozoa migrate up through the cervix. In between you need to keep dog and bitch separated (by something made of metal or it won't work) to allow his sperm count to grow potent again.  Every other day is ideal.
  Tue 16 Aug 2005	Sperm travel searching for a mature ripened eggs.
  Tue 16 Aug 2005 - Wed 17 Aug 2005	Spermatozoa reach the eggs in the oviducts.
  Wed 17 Aug 2005 - Thu 18 Aug 2005	Fertilization occurs in the oviducts which lead from the ovaries to the uterus. Dam should only be eating puppy chow now to give her enough nutrition to cover pups too.  She needs the extra protein as well as the calcium.
  Thu 18 Aug 2005 - Sat 20 Aug 2005	Fertilised eggs migrate down the oviducts and into the uterine horns. The migration continue to enable even spacing of the embryos. During this migration the eggs will grow into a blastocystes.
  Fri 26 Aug 2005 - Sun 28 Aug 2005	The blastocystes implant in the wall of the uterus.
  Fri 26 Aug 2005 - Fri 9 Sep 2005	The blastocystes will grow into an embryos. During the next two weeks the important organs will develop.
  Mon 29 Aug 2005 - Mon 5 Sep 2005	Dams nipples begin to pink enlarge. The fur on the dams belly and around the nipples may become thinner. -If not you will need to start trimming it for your future pups to find it easier without pulling her hair.
  Sun 4 Sep 2005 - Sun 11 Sep 2005	Morning sickness might occur due to hormonal changes or stretching and distension of the uterus. Dam may appear a bit apathetic. She may be off her feed for a while and vomit from time to time. Saltine crackers help as needed. Feeding the dam several meals spaced throughout the day might help. Your veterinarian may want to prescribe a drug to relax the uterus.
  Fri 9 Sep 2005 - Tue 13 Sep 2005	An experienced person (a breeder or a veterinarian) can tell by careful palpation whether the dam is pregnant. It's now the best time to do this because the embryos are walnut-sized now and easy to count.
  Mon 12 Sep 2005	Start to increase the dams food ration of high protein food. Don't overfeed, excessive weight gain should be avoided. The foetuses are now and are fully developed miniature dogs.
  Sun 18 Sep 2005	The Dams abdomen starts to get larger.
  Wed 28 Sep 2005	It's very easy now to feel the puppies, counting them might be a bit more difficult.
  Sat 1 Oct 2005 - Sun 9 Oct 2005	Dam begins to spend a lot more time in self-grooming. Her breasts become even more swollen. She may become a bit restlessness and begin to search for a suitable place to have her puppies. Take her to the whelping station you have built so that she gets used to sleeping there and is comfortable in it.
  Mon 3 Oct 2005	The dam might lose her appetite during this period. Her abdomen can be crowded with puppies. It is better to feed several smaller meals spaced throughout the day. You can easily detect abdominal movement now.
  Mon 3 Oct 2005 - Tue 18 Oct 2005	Nipples and vulva should be gently cleaned with warm water, you might want to trim the hairs surrounding the nipples again, to allow easier access for the puppies to suck.
  Thu 13 Oct 2005 - Sun 16 Oct 2005	Milky fluid may be expressed from the nipples.
  Fri 14 Oct 2005	You might want to start taking the dams rectal temperature each morning and evening.
  Mon 17 Oct 2005	Twelve to 24 hours before she is due to deliver, the dams rectal temperature may drop from 101 to 98 degrees. Clear discharge from the vulva might occur.  I start feeding her Pedialyte (flavorless) instead of water to make sure that she stays correctly hydrated and keep her stomach in good condition as she will not want to eat for a while.  I continue the Pedialyte through the first couple of days after the whelp until she wants regular water instead.
  Tue 18 Oct 2005	Expected date of whelp. Of course this is just an average. Whelping may take place from the 59th to the 65th day. Puppies born before the 58th day will probably be too young to survive as their lungs will not be developed.  If you run into problems, you can have an X-ray made of the dam's womb.  If the pup's spines are not just as visible as their skulls, then they are consisting of more cartilage than bone and will not make it.  Below is a scanned X-ray.  You should be able to make out the skull in yellow and the spine in white.  It is much more clear when you are looking at the X-ray under the vet's lamp.

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What to do first when your Akita is lost or stolen:

1. Notify your breeder.  They will need to be a on the microchip lookout.  Also, they may know other people in your area willing to help you look.  Send most recent picture so I can update the home page of the website with it!

2. Notify Animal Care and Control/the pound in case they pick up the dog.  Provide most recent pictures if they are willing to take them.  Do this for every locality within 50 miles as the dog can travel and because rescues say that for some reason, people will find a dog and take him home first and then the pound.

3. Notify local Akita rescues and all breed rescues and provide pictures.

4. Enter your information with most recent picture of dog on www.fidofinder.com

5. Call local news networks if they are willing to spotlight lost pets.

6. If you believe the dog was stolen from your home, contact your local police department and file a burglary report.

7. Flyer EVERYWHERE, the more people aware that your dog is loved, the more likely it will be found!  You have to make people care as much as you do!  If you can, take another dog with you, dogs attract other dogs.

8. Note that if your Akita is/was in tact, it is likely that they will return a different dog as they may have mated while on their freedom run!

If you have another great idea, please tell me so that I can add it for everyone else....

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